Sedona is one of America’s most unique places. The Arizona desert town sitting at the edge of Slide Rock State Park and Coconino National Forest has drawn people from all over the world to it, all in the name of various shades of woo-woo. Tales of strange energies and vortexes abound, and there is a convergence between a lot of Native American culture, Eastern practices of medicine and mindfulness, RFK Jr.-style Western woo theories, as well as an entire population claiming to interact with and see a wide array of paranormal and other unexplained phenomena. Sedona takes great pride in being one of the UFO capitals of the world, and practically every restaurant, shop and art gallery you walk into there has some image of the classic grey alien celebrating Sedona’s loveable weirdness, as the titular photo of the most inclusive bathroom I’ve ever seen demonstrates. There is also a set of turquoise arches in town, proving that Sedona has a level of power which bends one of the most recognizable brands on the planet to its woo-adjacent will.
My sister proposed driving down there, as I have spent the last year diving down an increasingly bizarre rabbit hole of woo in pursuit of figuring out what Chuck Schumer and the government knows about UFOs. All that I know–a very dangerous word in this world–stems from my one source, other knowledgeable people who I have talked to, and what I have read in the public record. I’ve never seen a UFO, never felt any kind of experience or feeling I couldn’t explain (at least until my dog suddenly died in February), and never saw a ghost or experienced anything anomalous. I have zero personal experience with woo. I have lived 38 years of a woo-less life.
It does make what I call the Great Bullshit Ocean a little more difficult to traverse, as all I can say for certain in print amounts to a hedge that believable people are saying unbelievable things. I agreed with my sister that it was a good idea to try to get some personal experience to help inform my writing and research on this subject, even if it’s all bullshit. At least I’d get to test my bullshit detector inside Sedona’s supposed vortexes. I’m writing two articles about my inquiries into the town’s woo, the first about Sedona itself and the alleged vortexes it harbors, and another about a UFO tour we went on. Consider these a thesis of woo.
Allegedly, all the iron oxide and quartz in the soil is responsible for the woo-woo nature of Sedona. One of the things that surprised me most about this trip was the number of residents with scientific backgrounds I talked to who believed things that the mainstream scientific view of the world finds preposterous. They explained Sedona’s mysteries to me entirely through scientific concepts until they admitted they were untethered from what we can say we know and wholly in the realm of theory, and many came off as eminently reasonable thinkers. Science is a big part of the town–they would probably put quartz and iron oxide on their flag under the right conditions. The art galleries that you can find on every corner are filled with beautiful exhibits from engineers, and almost everyone I spoke to about this town’s strange identity brought it back to some sort of scientific explanation, very often rooted in the properties of quartz and iron oxide. As much as the wild woo stuff is front and center in Sedona, the core commonality of the town is clearly creativity, and that brings in a lot of different kinds of thinkers and feelers.
I am vastly unqualified to vet these scientific explanations, so I am not leaving this trip knowing much of anything, but I was changed by what I felt. I bought what was allegedly a healing quartz my first day and hiked in one of Sedona’s alleged vortexes at Bell Rock with it. I did feel some kind of strange energy I couldn’t put my finger on, while I did not see the famed blue beings of Sedona or have a paranormal experience like some report. I know that sounds ridiculous, but welcome to Sedona. The blue beings thing is a thing and if you want to hear someone talk about their experience with Sedona’s supposed paranormal residents, listen to this episode of Otherworld where a freelance filmmaker named Reece hiked in the same spot I hiked in and had a far stranger and more profound experience than I had.
As I wandered around, I could feel a mounting tension in my shoulders as I thought about Rocky and felt my feelings about him. I have worked with my therapist this year to process my grief, and while I am very much still a work in progress, I have become better at handling this grief as I have become more attuned to feeling my emotions in my body. She will do exercises with me and then ask me what I feel and where I feel it in my body, and very often I feel this slight pressure in my shoulders when I focus on memories of Rocky or just our deep love for each other that I know transcends the material world. When I felt this slight kind of mounting energy I can’t describe on the hike, I felt it above my shoulders several inches above what I have come to term the Rocky spot at the base of them.
At first, I thought it had to be the placebo effect–and to be clear, it could have been. Grief is the most certain aspect of this story, and it works in mysterious ways. I was told by plenty of people about Sedona’s alleged vortexes before I arrived, and so I figured this indescribable tension I felt in my shoulders was my brain anticipating something, and my mounting emotion was me giving into the placebo effect, all while grief remained the engine for this. I left Sedona with far more questions than answers, but the tension and emotion mounted in me to such a degree that I eventually broke down crying. When we left the alleged vortex, I could feel the tension above my shoulders abate a bit, although the grief that overwhelmed me on the hike remained.
While I am very skeptical of the healing crystal I bought, it is part of the iron oxide and quartz story the town tells, and supposedly what I did by taking this quartz to an alleged vortex is I charged it. One person I spoke to about my experience hiking said it all tracks in Sedona’s world of vortexes. I’m unfamiliar with this, and so if it works the way they say it does, it would make sense that I wouldn’t be able to make sense of what I feel and eventually become overwhelmed by it.
There is a metaphorical tension in my body now about this experience, as my logical brain can find reasonable explanations like the placebo effect and the non-linear nature of grief and the confusion it creates, while my gut instinct is much less certain about anything in any direction. What I know the most is how I felt, which was overwhelmed with love and sadness.
Feelings Are Knowledge
This gets to one of the notions I heard over and over and over again in Sedona: feelings have plenty of intellectual legitimacy in the town’s worldview, and to the more woo-inclined residents, can often be more accurate than the rational thoughts you compile in your brain. Society has become so hyper-logical in the Age of Enlightenment, and we downplay the notion of things like gut instinct simply because we cannot measure and quantify it the way we can with other strange but more understood things like gravity. I believe gut instinct is real, and that perhaps studies of the strangeness of consciousness provide it with a potential scientific basis. Much of the studies around flow state that helped win NBA Championships resemble this idea that you just innately know how to do something, and you do it without actively thinking about it.
Honestly, that describes my writing process. After doing the research for the story, I just put my fingers on the keyboard, tap into an emotion the story evokes, find an evidentiary track to take it down, and all of a sudden, here’s your daily Splinter. It’s produced largely without an active form of thinking aside from routing the emotion from point to point based on my open tabs (editing is quite another thing though), and I’m far from the only writer who feels like this, and there’s potential scientific explanations for it. The quantum realm is plenty strange, as it connects particles across millions of light years. There’s no reason gut instinct driven by some quantum mechanics we don’t understand yet couldn’t be part of our evolutionary path, where humans with a less developed innate feel for the world around them went down the wrong path and were eaten by a predator, while those who took the other route survived and passed on this feeling that did not lead them down the path to being something else’s meal, and it’s led to a world where we call it flow state and Steph Curry uses it to make shooting threes look easier than anyone else ever has before.
I still don’t know about this quartz and iron oxide notion or vortexes or a lot of the woo theories I encountered in my travels. The UFO aspect is different, in part because I have a very credible source telling me it’s different, to say nothing of the interest the last two Democratic Senate Majority Leaders have in it. But as I have dove into the UFO realm, it has become more complicated than just interstellar SUVs, and a lot of the good evidence tracks back towards woo and eventually connects back towards objective reality through scientific studies of consciousness. I have always been more open to some level of woo in part because like the town of Sedona, I also grew up on stolen Native American land. As a child of the Rockies, I was exposed to the culture of the Arapaho, Navajo, Ute, Shoshone and Comanche tribes across our great state also allegedly filled with vortexes, and definitely filled with iron oxide (it’s practically in Colorado’s name! Hell, I was at a concert at Red Rocks last month).
The problem with “woo” culture in America is that it has different strains that are distinct from each other both in kind and origin, but are still all connected. So one second, you’ll have someone talking to you about centuries of solemnly holy native culture on each side of the Pacific Ocean, and the next you’ll pick up notes of an RFK Jr. acolyte. Woo is a dangerous path to blindly tread down, because one well-trod path in this country leads you to ingesting brain-worms.
But the Navajo existed well before the Kennedys, and they and others have long spoken of “Star People” and the wonderous interactive properties of the earth that lay beyond the ability of the naked eye to grasp it (this is called foreshadowing the UFO tour article)–properties scientists have measured through things like the earth’s natural magnetic field. This is where woo becomes most compelling to me, because centuries of tradition and ceremonies have been built around genuinely held beliefs across the world, and there is at least at the level of theory, a potential scientific basis to explain this broad strain of human culture which believes that something more profound than us lies behind the veil of material reality.
While it’s important to stay woo-vigilant, I think a lot of people approach this stuff far too cynically and believe that all these people who believe things outside the mainstream are full of shit or grifters or total lunatics (it’s also incredibly dismissive of Native American culture). Grifters and lunatics certainly exist everywhere in our modern age, but when you actually talk to a range of people in everyday life who believe this stuff, it’s a lot harder to downplay the humanity showing their vulnerability and demonstrating a level of trust in you. The people in Sedona who were trying to sell me something the most were the poor sales folks this former sales guy sympathizes with in the art galleries who have to watch tourists gawk at the beauty produced by hard work and creativity and not financially reward it. A lot of the crystal and UFO and spiritual healing types I talked to spoke very matter of factly about the culture of Sedona, and they didn’t really seem to care if I accepted it or not.
Everyone is on their own journey, and critical thinking is a core part of it. You don’t want to get so woo-pilled that you just start believing everything and RFK Jr. starts sounding reasonable. But you don’t want to become such a cynic that you just outright reject data or evidence that conflicts with your incomplete worldview. Science is the best thing we’ve got to discover actual truths, but we have made it something of a religion in our less religious era, with many asserting it to be an unflinching set of known things instead of a set of practices and tools humanity has developed to inform us about the world–a set of tools that is constantly proving that what we thought we knew was wrong and the world is more complex than we previously believed.
Quartz is conductive, it’s used in wristwatches and many other electronics. In 2012, “A multi-institutional team led by scientists at Berkeley Lab directly observed electron hopping in iron oxide particles, a phenomenon that holds huge significance for a broad range of environment-and energy-related applications.” Piezoelectricity was a big part of the scientific woo-worldview I encountered. These people aren’t just pulling everything out their asses. I’m not asserting that this iron oxide and quartz woo explanation is correct, just that it is much more well-thought out and evidence-based than the cynics would lead you to believe.
I don’t know much more exiting Sedona than I did entering it, but I do feel different. And according to them, that’s the point. I didn’t have a clue how I was going to feel about this trip going into it, and leaving it, the story Sedona tells is a beautiful and recognizable one. The universe is far more complex and beautiful than we think, the soul is real, and it survives past our lives in these meat sacks. Maybe that’s what all the strangeness in studies of consciousness is picking up. Sedona says there are ways to develop and mature your understanding of all this strangeness and preserve it past our meat sack-driven reality, and independent of whether or not we can use the Han Solo “it’s all true” meme to describe the town’s woo-based science, it has had a dramatic impact on countless people’s lives, making it very real in the only way we can say that we truly know matters.
Here is Part 2 of my woo-vestigation in Sedona, detailing what we saw–and didn’t see–on the UFO tour.
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